I’ve been seeing a lot of salmon roe in restaurants ... At Mango Bay in Fort Greene, the “ras & pasta” was topped with stracciatella, lobster, and roe, while at Pitt’s over in Red Hook ...

The brightest thing in the bowl was a scoop of glistening salmon roe on top, flanked by sliced scallions and a lemon wedge. After the noodles were gone, I chased down each remaining slippery orb ...